Yaviza, Darian, Panama, C.A.
Zaradi neprestanega dezevja, blata, naraslih rek in panamske vojske, ki me je zasacila v provinci Darian 70 km pred kolumbijsko mejo, se vracam v civilizacijo. Po planu B bom moral ubrati drugo pot preko otokov San Blas in "legalno" prestopiti mejo ob karibskem morju.
Dnevi, ki so za mano so me izucili zopet nekaj novega v zivljenju. Ne poskusaj tistega, kar je nemogoce!
Do kraja Yavisa, kjer se pred dzunglo konca znamenita Panamericana je se nekako slo, ceprav sem zadnja dva dni za 35 km poti potreboval dva dni. Da bi sedel na kolo in kolesaril niti pomislil nisem, saj sem kolo komaj tiscal, vlekel in nosil. V yavizi sem delno posusil opremo in razstavil kolo, da sem ga lahko ocistil. Nato sem kljub prepovedi panamske vojske, ki patrulira po gozdu in rekah zaradi kolumbijskih tihotapcev drog nadaljeval pot v notranjost skoraj neprehodne dzungle.
Po dveh mokrih, blatnih in majbolj obupnih dneh mojega zivljenja so me vojaki zasacili kaksnih 70 km pred mejo.
Pripeljali so me nazaj v stab, kjer sem najprej premocen cakal 8 ur in nato je sledil urni napev povelnika v spanskem jeziku, ki ga hvala bogu nisem povsem razumel.
Yavizo sem moral zapustiti naslednje jutro ob petih zjutraj.
Prvih trideset kilomerrov me je spremljala vojaska patrulja in nato sem se moral javljati na vsaki cestni kontroli, kjer so me ze ob prihodu v provinco Darian popisovali od nog do glave.
Vsaka sola nekaj stane, ce ne denarja, pa nekaj dni, kilometrov in zivcev.
Dnevi, ki so za mano so me izucili zopet nekaj novega v zivljenju. Ne poskusaj tistega, kar je nemogoce!
Do kraja Yavisa, kjer se pred dzunglo konca znamenita Panamericana je se nekako slo, ceprav sem zadnja dva dni za 35 km poti potreboval dva dni. Da bi sedel na kolo in kolesaril niti pomislil nisem, saj sem kolo komaj tiscal, vlekel in nosil. V yavizi sem delno posusil opremo in razstavil kolo, da sem ga lahko ocistil. Nato sem kljub prepovedi panamske vojske, ki patrulira po gozdu in rekah zaradi kolumbijskih tihotapcev drog nadaljeval pot v notranjost skoraj neprehodne dzungle.
Po dveh mokrih, blatnih in majbolj obupnih dneh mojega zivljenja so me vojaki zasacili kaksnih 70 km pred mejo.
Pripeljali so me nazaj v stab, kjer sem najprej premocen cakal 8 ur in nato je sledil urni napev povelnika v spanskem jeziku, ki ga hvala bogu nisem povsem razumel.
Yavizo sem moral zapustiti naslednje jutro ob petih zjutraj.
Prvih trideset kilomerrov me je spremljala vojaska patrulja in nato sem se moral javljati na vsaki cestni kontroli, kjer so me ze ob prihodu v provinco Darian popisovali od nog do glave.
Vsaka sola nekaj stane, ce ne denarja, pa nekaj dni, kilometrov in zivcev.
May 22, 2007 @ 08:45 | Reply
Tole bo en malo daljsi komentar. Mogoce ti bo pa kaj koristil. Sicer pa internet vse prenese. :)
Jaz sem razmisljal o obratni varianti iz Kolumbije v Panamo. Sicer se kasneje (predvsem) zaradi casa nisem odlocil za to. In ko sem takrat iskal informacije sem naletel na tole. Besedilo je od lani zato mogoce ne drzi vec vse. Je pa tudi namenjeno nam navadnim pesakom, ki uporabljamo avtobuse in colne... Ne vem kako gre to s kolesom.
* * * When I dared to ask if anyone knew how to get from Colombia to Panama by small boats and land border rather than flying or by sailboat via Cartagena, all I got was laughed at and in some cases even abuse. Now, I have done it, and survived, so you might be interested in knowing how.
First of all: IT IS SAFE. Quite a few people do it. However, before you set out, ask again for local advice. the situation seems stable, but you never know.
I went from Colombia to Panama, but it is probably easier the other way round (no risk of being stranded in Puerto ObaldÃa because the plane is full and avoiding hassle at the border to enter Panama. Panama is one of the worst countries I have seen for immigration.
1. Go to Turbo, either via dirt road from MonterÃa (considered safe) or by paved road up from MedellÃn, via Santa Fé de Antioquia. Guidebooks say this route is not safe, but I have asked every police and DAS officer and lots of locals and all agree it is safe now as long as you travel by day. I know people that took the nightbus and nothing happened. The scenery is amazing though, so not worth the risk of overnight travel.
2. Launches to Capurganá leave Turbo (one block from the street where all the hotels are) around 09:00 hours. The price is 20.00 US$. The trip takes 2 hours. Be there at about 7:30 to put your name on the passenger´s list.
3. In Capurganá you will be greeted by the DAS man who checks your passport. If you carry on to Panama without stopping over you have your passport stamped by the DAS man and hop into the boat to Puerto ObaldÃa (10.00 US$) that is probably waiting at the dock as you arrive from Turbo.
You can stay in Capurganá or carry on to Sapzurro (2.50 US$ - 10 minutes), the last village (about 200 people) in Colombia, which is quieter and somewhat nicer (I think). There are plenty of cabañas (e.g doña Chila, El "Chileno", doña Pandale), while Capurganá has everything from cheap hotels (Uvito at the dock) to cabañas to up-scale beachfront hotels. Your pick.
You can even walk to Sapzurro through beautiful jungle (1.5 hours, yes, it is safe, but ask the locals to make doublesure ).
From Sapzurro you can walk 20 minutes up the ridge, over the border ( the officials simply take your name and passport number, no need to carry your passport ) and down the ridge to the ugly concrete Panamanian border village of La Miel, which has a strikingly beautiful beach. (It would be even better if anyone had the sense to grab a plastic bag and collect some of the rubbish the sea brings in). Buy a cocoloco from the locals and relax before walking back. Good beaches at Capurganá and Sapzurro too.
4. After getting your exit stamp, you organise a boat to Puerto ObaldÃa (usually 40 minutes, 10.00 US$). You will be greeted by the Panamanian police, probably left to wait for hours, interviewed, searched and generally hassled for ages. Then you walk onto the immigration, same as the police. Takes a while, the whole thing.
WARNING: South American citizens will be asked to show an onward ticket from Panama, otherwise they are refused the entry stamp. As Europeans we had no troubles, not sure about people from other parts of the world.
Everyone is asked to show adequate funds for their stay, so try to bring dollars in cash to Panama, as well as at least one credit card.
It is possible to change your leftover Pesos to Dollars in ObaldÃa at a good rate. Ask doña Cande of the (only) hotel, she will set you up with the guy.
5. Now you will have to fly or, if you are lucky find a trade boat that goes via San Blas. Kuna Indian boats call regularly, but nobody seems to know exactly when. So this cannot be planned.
If you fly: the ticket is 60.00 US$ to Panama City, 45 minute flight, every Wednesday and Sunday, sometimes on Fridays as well. The trouble is, ever so often there is no availibility. We got the last 2 seats, some other people who got there after us just had to stay in ObaldÃa. The lady in ObaldÃa does not accept phone reservations, but since the company (Aeroperlas) accepts credit cards, it may be possible to buy the ticket in advance from their Panama city headquarters. I have not tried it, but it may just work.
After you get to Panama City you will go through the same hassle again, customs, immigration and the police all ask you the same questions over and over again: That took us another 3.5 hours (!!).
And that is it. No trouble at all, but for immigration and possibly booked out planes. And a lot cheaper than an international flight and the 250+ USD you pay for the sailing trip to Cartagena.
Jorge Daniel Barchi.
Buenos Aires.